Did you think that pimple patches, those cute blemish-fighting stickers, were a recent invention? Think again. A 17th-century painting reveals a fascinating historical beauty practice that mirrors the modern trend of using blemish patches to cover imperfections. In The Allegorical Portrait of Two Ladies (circa 1650), two women are depicted with decorative patches shaped like crescent moons and whirligigs adorning their faces. This artwork not only documents a historical skincare ritual but also features one of the earliest representations of beauty patches, similar to the modern pimple patches.
The painting, which had remained in obscurity until its sale at auction in 2021, was recently displayed at Compton Verney after being placed under an export ban by the British government due to its significance. It’s easy to assume that skincare was a lesser priority in earlier centuries, but the evidence shows otherwise. “Although it’s been largely ignored by most historians until recently, there is a centuries-long history of skincare that is now being uncovered,” says Professor Jill Burke, author of How to Be a Renaissance Woman, a book that delves into Renaissance beauty culture. Through historical analysis of texts and recipes, modern researchers have uncovered a world of skincare practices that are surprisingly similar to our own, featuring anti-wrinkle creams, sunscreens, and blemish removers.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, fashionable individuals would use small patches made of black silk or velvet in various shapes—ranging from hearts to flowers—not only to conceal blemishes but also to accentuate specific facial features, much like today’s cosmetic patches. These patches were either pre-made with an adhesive resin backing, akin to modern pimple patches, or stuck on with the wearer’s saliva. In Venice, the Calle de le Moschete (Alley of the Little Flies) was famously known for selling large numbers of these beauty patches in the 18th century.
While beauty patches are often associated with ancient Rome, where they were used to cover scars from disfiguring diseases like smallpox or marks like moles and skin tags (which were often considered “devil’s marks” during witch hunts), the 18th century saw a rise in their popularity. For instance, in a portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Charles, 9th Lord Cathcart, can be seen sporting a large black patch on his face, much like a modern undereye mask, to cover a battle scar. Dr. Katherine Aske, a specialist in dermatology history, explains that concerns about the skin have always existed, especially in the wake of smallpox epidemics. During this time, medical treatises and remedy books about skin became widely available.
Despite their popularity, beauty patches were not universally adored. In 1649, a bill was introduced in Parliament to ban the use of black patches and immodest clothing worn by women. Even the 1683 book England’s Vanity or The Voice of God criticized the vanity associated with these patches, decrying them as “abominable.” This sentiment was echoed in the inscription on the Allegorical Portrait of Two Ladies, which some interpret as a warning against pride and vanity.
However, following the Restoration in 1660, beauty patches took on a new continental flair. Known as mouches (flies) in French, these patches were often worn even when there were no blemishes to hide. It was believed that their placement could enhance the wearer’s beauty or signify emotions, status, or political affiliations. Madame du Barry, the infamous mistress of Louis XV, was said to have kept a guide to the symbolic meanings of the mouche. A patch at the corner of the eye suggested passion, one on the breast indicated generosity, and one on the forehead symbolized dignity.
Today, the use of pimple patches has once again gained popularity, with a modern twist: they’re used to treat acne and blemishes, often infused with soothing ingredients like salicylic acid or tea tree oil. Gen-Z has embraced this historical beauty practice, showing that despite the centuries, the desire to enhance and protect our skin remains timeless.
